MEAT STUFFED GNOCCHI

The stuffing of this gnocchi is very similar to the one of Ascoli olives, a skilled mix of meats cooked in a soffritto, whose taste is made lighter by a touch of lemon zest. The only complicated phase is finding the procedure to fill the gnocchi; I think that using a piping bag makes the operation a lot easier.

It is quite hard not to find intriguing recipes in Italy: its regional cuisine is extremely rich and varied and, Marche region, not very known by mass tourism, offers us wonderful dishes with meat, vegetables, and fish.

In the near future, I am going to propose some Marche recipes: I learned to appreciate various dishes thanks to some sibling who introduced me to many treats. In addition, some trips in which I explored wonderful restaurants made me appreciate this region even more.

The scarce knowledge of the regional treasures contributed to maintaining an Italian atmosphere, not wretched by the mechanisms of great masses of tourists.

I have always been thinking that the real atmosphere of a country is much better seized in small towns, which tend to be more conservative and contribute to keeping the great Italian culinary tradition alive.

Now the region is living a new awakening, also as a reaction to the destructions caused by an earthquake, which stroke it in 2016: concerts like “Marche Rise Again” and new cycles of art exhibits propose a panoramic view of artistic treasures of the region, like, for instance, the cycle dedicated to Lorenzo Lotto.

 

Prep Time: 50 minutes | Cooking Time: 40 minutes | Total Time: 1 hour + 30 minutes | Yield: Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients for the stuffing

 

  • 2,5 pounds (1 kg) white, russet or other starchy potatoes, steamed and peeled
  • 2 cups (250 g.) pastry or “00” flour, plus more as needed
  • 10 oz. (300 g.) mixed meats (chicken breast, pork, and veal)
  • 3 egg yolks
  • 1 carrot, finely minced
  • 1 onion, finely minced
  • 1 celery stalk, finely minced
  • ½ glass of white wine
  • ½ glass water
  • ¼ organic lemon grated zest
  • 1 tablespoon grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tablespoons butter

 

Ingredients for the sauce

 

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 14 oz.  (400 g.)  finely chopped tomato sauce
  • Sea salt

 

Instructions for making the gnocchi

Heat butter and oil in a saucepan and sauté the vegetables in it. When they are cooked, add the meats roughly chopped. Cook the meats, adding water and wine. Stir the meats and, when the wine has evaporated, cover with a lid and make the meats simmer for half an hour. When it is cooked, take the meats, draining them from the cooking liquid, and put them in a mixer.

Filter the cooking liquid with a sieve, and put it aside. Ground the meats in the mixer, then add the yolks, the Parmigiano, the lemon zest, and the cooking liquid. Mix again. Move the stuffing to a piping bag.:

While the meat is cooking, steam the potatoes for the gnocchi.

For making gnocchi, follow the instructions in this recipe.

Divide the dough into parts bigger than usual, since it must contain the filling. Stuff the gnocchi and close the little balls by rolling them quickly between the palms of your hands.

Lay the gnocchi on a paper tray previously sprinkled with flour.

Instructions for making the sauce

In a non-sticking pan, sauté garlic cloves in oil and discard them when golden. Add the tomato and make it simmer for 10 minutes.

Cook the gnocchi in boiling salted water for few minutes, it can be drained when it floats and poured directly in the pan with the sauce. I suggest using a pastaiola or draining them in batches, using a slotted spoon.

 




BUTTERNUT SQUASH: THE JOY OF AUTUMN

Butternut squash is one of the many joys of the season: rain and cold temperatures are compensated by incredibly rich and comforting foods. It is another gift from the Americas, like potatoes.

Accompanied by a creamy Taleggio cheese sauce, this dish speaks about the valley crossed through the Po river, its fog, its chilly temperatures. In this discomforting weather, nevertheless, the inhabitants created a varied cuisine, sophisticated, that requires some manual skills but is a great source of satisfaction.

One of my personal favorites is this recipe of gnocchi: the great canonic recipe of gnocchi is enriched by the addition of Butternut squash. It is extremely versatile: the 00 flour can be easily replaced by the same quantity of gluten-free flour in order to create a dish which can be tasted by our celiac guests. It is important to underline that the temperature of potatoes and squash is fundamental: just tepid, not too hot, or it would require an excessive quantity of flour, nor too cold, or it would be very hard to knead. Still, for the egg intolerant or vegan tablemates, we can decide not to add the egg. We must be quite skilled, though, since the egg makes pasta easier to knead. (and of course, the Taleggio sauce should be replaced by a vegetables one.

This recipe, like many others, is a starting point for a journey in the pleasures of Autumn.

 

Prep Time: 5 minutes | Cooking Time: 25 minutes | Total Time: 2 hours | Yield: Makes 6 servings.

Ingredients for gnocchi

  • 2 pounds (800 gr.) Hubbard squash, deseeded and cut in thin slices, then baked
  • 1 pound (400 gr.) russet potatoes , steamed and peeled
  • 1 medium egg
  • 1 cup (130 gr.) pastry/00 flour

 

Ingredients for Taleggio sauce

  • 7 oz. (200 gr.) Taleggio cheese
  • ¾ cup (200 ml.) milk
  • 1 tablespoon (20 gr.) butter
  • 2 tablespoons (20 gr.) pastry/00 flour
  • 1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg

 

Preparation of gnocchi

Push the potatoes (while still tepid/warm) through a food mill or potato ricer, onto a lightly floured work surface. In case the potatoes are too humid (moist) bake them for 5 minutes in the oven, before mashing them.

Gather the potatoes into a mound and make a well in the center. Peel the squash. Squeeze it, push it through a potato ricer and add it to the well. Sprinkle ¾ of the flour into the well and add in the egg.

Mix the ingredients by hand until a soft dough forms. If necessary, add more flour, a little at a time, until the dough has a smooth, evenly moistened consistency.

Lightly flour your work surface and divide the dough into at least eight portions. Roll the portions into 1-inch-thick ropes and cut the ropes into 1-inch pieces. Roll the gnocchi over a fork to shape them, if desired.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi and stir a few times with a wooden spoon to submerge and separate them. Cook at a gentle boil until the gnocchi is tender and just beginning to float about 2 to 3 minutes.

Preparation of Taleggio sauce

Make a béchamel melting the butter over low heat, combining the flour and salt and whisking with a fork as you add to prevent lumps. Add the milk a little at a time, whisking as you pour.

Raise the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Simmer for about 5 minutes to thicken, whisking to prevent and break up any lumps (eventually, use an immersion blender). Add the Taleggio, whisk for about 5 minutes to break up any lumps and join the gnocchi. Grate a pinch of nutmeg on the dish.

 




POTATO GNOCCHI WITH ARUGULA PESTO AND PRAWNS

The freshness of arugula is very inviting in the heat of the Italian summer. This is, of course, a variation of the famous “pesto” par excellence”. Arugula is a great source of flavonoids that are believed to have antioxidant properties. It’s also an excellent source of vitamin K, B and a very good source of iron, magnesium and vitamin A. Not only it shares the beneficial effects on the health of other cruciferous vegetables, but it is also a very rustic plant that does not need too much water, and it is ideal for the ones who have no too much time to dedicate to their garden.

The choice of potato gnocchi implies a lower quantity of calories due to the nutritional qualities of potato. I always prefer, if possible, to make potato gnocchi myself (see recipe).

The Latins considered this plant as a powerful aphrodisiac, probably because of its peppery flavor, typical above all of the wild variety.

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH ARUGULA PESTO AND PRAWNS

  • 3,5 pounds fresh potato gnocchi
  • 18 prawns

For pesto

  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • ½ cup (2 oz./60 g) pine nuts ((it can be replaced by same quantity of walnut pieces))
  • 3 cups (3 oz./90 g) arugula leaves coarsest chopped
  • ½ cup (2 oz./60 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • ¼ cup (1 oz./30 g) freshly grated Pecorino cheese
  • ½ cup (4 fl. Oz./125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
  • Sea salt for seasoning
  1. In a small food processor, combine the garlic and pine nuts or walnuts. Blend until it is a soft paste and then add arugula in small batches, and the olive oil, spoon by spoon. Blend each time until there is room to add a little more arugula and oil. Once all the arugula and oil is added, blend thoroughly until smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the cheeses, pulse to blend. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
  2. Transfer pesto to a serving bowl or platter.Cook gnocchi – in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, and add prawns 30 seconds before pasta is “al dente”.

    Take ½ cup pasta cooking liquid, and add to pesto, stirring carefully. Transfer gnocchi and prawns in the bowl with pesto and stir vigorously. Serve immediately.

 




POTATO GNOCCHI, A GIFT FROM AMERICAS

Potato gnocchi recipe is relatively recent in the Italian tradition, compared to the other ones.

Gnocchi is spread in all regions of Italy, and with all possible ingredients, depending on where it comes from: flour, corn, semolina, bread, chestnut flour, ricotta, or vegetables – from squash to spinach to classic potato.

The potato was discovered by chance by the conquistadores of Spain, who rode over the tubers in pursuit of the Inca leader, Atahualpa, and his riches. They almost literally “stumbled upon” this precious tuber in the first decades of 15th century.

The story of the conquest by the humble potato of the rest of the world was slow and full of misunderstandings, particularly in Italy. Imported from Spain, it appeared in botanical gardens of Padua and Verona as a scientific “curiosity” in 1591 and 1608. In 1565, King Philip II had gifted the Vatican court with some sample of tubers which were mistaken for truffles, and of course, used improperly. This episode and some other related to food poisoning (potatoes can develop toxicity in certain conditions), prevented a fast growth of its popularity.

While other countries realized the nutritious potential and resiliency in conditions often hostile to the cultivation of cereals, in Italy, the extensive cultivation of potatoes appeared only in the second half of the 19th century.  Probably the political divisions of Italy in so many small kingdoms prevented modern agricultural development.

POTATO GNOCCHI

  • 2,5 pounds (1 kg) white, russet or other starchy potatoes, steamed and peeled
  • 1 + 1/4 cups (300 gr.) “00” flour, plus more as needed
  • 1 large egg
  1. Push the potatoes (while still tepid/warm) through a food mill or potato ricer, onto a lightly floured work surface. In case the potatoes are too humid (moist) bake them for 5 minutes in the oven, before mashing them.
  2. Gather the potatoes into a mound and make a well in the center. Sprinkle ¾ of the flour into the well and add in the egg. Mix the ingredients by hand until a soft dough forms. If necessary, add more flour, a little at a time, until the dough has a smooth, evenly moistened consistency.
  3. Lightly flour your work surface and divide the dough into at least eight portions. Roll the portions into 1-inch-thick ropes and cut the ropes into 1-inch pieces. Roll the gnocchi over a fork to shape them, if desired.
  4. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi and stir a few times with a wooden spoon to submerge and separate them. Cook at a gentle boil until the gnocchi are tender and just beginning to float, about 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the gnocchi and serve with the sauce.

Gnocchi must be eaten within 2 hours from their preparation or frozen on a paper tray covered by parchment lightly sprinkled with flour. They must be carefully separated so that they do not stick together. After 3-4 hours they can be put in a bag. NEVER THAW frozen pasta, just boil it as it is, just add 2-3 minutes to the cooking time.




GNUDI, TYPICAL TUSCAN RICOTTA AND SPINACH GNOCCHI

Gnudi is a typical Tuscan dish, simple and tasty, where the filling is served in the form of gnocchi but without the pasta wrap. The name comes from ‘gnudo’ meaning naked one, in the Tuscan vernacular. The dish comes from the southern Tuscan region of Maremma, one of Italy’s areas for sheep.

In Italy in Spring we have the best ricotta, it is the time of new-borns and fresh milk. Try this recipe, you won’t regret it.

Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cooking Time: 15 minutes | Total Time: 30 minutes | Yield: Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients

  • 20 oz. (700 gr.) raw spinach or 10 oz. block (350 gr.) frozen chopped spinach
  • 1 medium egg
  • 1 cup (250gr.) whole milk ricotta cheese
  • 6,5 tbsp (50 gr.) 00 flour (plus more for dusting a sheet of kitchen paper and your hands while rolling)
  • 1 pinch grated nutmeg
  • sea salt and black pepper, to season
  • 1/3 cup (50 gr.) butter
  • 5-6 sage leaves
  • 2 tbsp (30 gr.) grated Parmesan

In advance: Using a strainer over a bowl, strain the ricotta overnight in the fridge to remove all the liquid.

TIP: Cover the strainer with plastic wrap to protect the cheese from absorbing scents in the fridge as it drains.

When you are ready to start making the gnudi, cook the raw spinach in a large pot of boiling salted water until just cooked through, about 1 minute. If using frozen spinach, let defrost, or microwave.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked spinach in small batches to a sieve. Use the sieve to squeeze ALL the water out of the spinach by pushing the spinach against the sieve. Cut the spinach.

In a frying pan, fry the garlic clove in the oil, discard the garlic and sauté the spinach in the flavored oil.

Place all of the ingredients in a food processor and pulse. You want to make sure the spinach is in tiny pieces and the mixture is thoroughly combined.

Dust your hands with a little flour so the mixture doesn’t stick to your hands.

Take 1 tablespoon of the spinach mixture and roll into balls about the size of a golf ball.

Place on a plate lined with waxed paper or parchment and sprinkled with flour, so the balls don’t stick.

In a small pot, melt the butter and carefully add the sage leaves.

TIP: It is important that the sage leaves do not fry.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil for cooking the gnudi.

Add the gnudi to the water one at a time and cook for 3 minutes or until they rise to the surface. Using a wooden spoon, carefully make sure they aren’t sticking to the bottom of the pot as they are cooking.

When they all float to the top, use a slotted spoon to remove the gnudi and place in your plate or bowl.

Sprinkle with parmesan cheese, pour the melted butter with sage over the top and serve.

You can replace a part of cow milk ricotta with a bit of sheep milk one, the taste will be really intriguing. In this case, be careful when seasoning with salt.




CARNEVALE FRITTERS – A REGIONAL DELIGHT CELEBRATED ACROSS ITALY

These are typical fritters made for Carnevale. They are extremely simple and very popular all over Italy. Of course, each region has its own slight variations in the name and ingredients.
In most recipes, there is the possible addition of liquor (grappa, Sambuca) and butter, but I prefer my grandmother’s recipe.
Replacing the liquor with vinegar is a touch of pure genius, even if it seems quite odd. Adding liquors helps the dough not absorb the oil during the frying, but vinegar works even more efficiently, and the taste evaporates during the cooking. This is a recipe that, in spite of being a fried food, is much lighter than its official version.

The most popular and simple fritters in Italy, my granmother’s variation of the standard recipe makes them even lighter and yummy.

Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cooking Time: 20 minutes | Total Time: 35 minutes | Yield: Makes 4  servings.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup 00 flour (130 gr.)
  • 1 medium size egg
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar (15 ml.)
  • 1 tbsp olive oil (15 ml.)
  • 1 tbsp white sugar (15 gr.)
  • icing sugar (for sprinkling the fritters)
  • peanut oil (for frying)

Instructions

 

On a wooden pastry board pour the flour in a mound, make a hole at its center and pour the egg.

Add sugar, vinegar and olive oil in it to the mound.

Starting with a fork, slowly add the flour to the liquid in the middle, gradually adding more flour all the time. Mix well.

When all the flour is mixed in, start to knead the dough.

When smooth, roll out by hand using a rolling pin, turning as you work.

Roll the dough into a sheet about 2 mm thick. If using a pasta machine, continue to feed dough through rollers once at each setting, without folding, until you reach the second to narrowest setting.

Cut the dough in diamonds, to about 10cm (4”) long.

Carefully place the pieces into the oil. Fry the diamonds a few pieces at a time, turning carefully with two forks to gently lift each piece. The dough will bubble as it cooks.

When light brown, remove and let cool on paper towel. Sprinkle the icing sugar while still warm, and serve.