CHESTNUT SOUFFLÉ

These days, most recipes use some pre-cooked ingredients, but for these chestnut soufflés I prefer using fresh chestnuts and boiling them instead of using a chestnut jam, as is indicated in modern recipes. As in other cases, I was inspired by the father of Italian cuisine, Pellegrino Artusi, and his Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well.

While jam gives an excessively sugary taste to the soufflés, this preparation is lighter and more elegant.

Serve them immediately without trying to remove them from their moulds.

 

Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cooking Time: 40 minutes | Total Time: 60 minutes | Yield: Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients

 

  • 5 oz. (150 g.) chestnuts
  • 3 tablespoons (25 g.) icing sugar
  • ¼ tablespoon vanilla
  • 2 medium egg yolks
  • A dash of marine salt
  • ¾ cup medium egg whites (about 3 + ½ eggs – 140 g.), room temperature
  • White sugar for ramekins
  • Unsalted butter (for ramekins)

Special Equipment

  • 4 (6-ounce) ramekins

Instructions

 

Boil the chestnuts in a pot with water for 10 minutes. Peel them, and cook them in milk for 30 minutes.

Put the chestnuts and milk in a bowl and, with an immersion blender, blend them. Pass through a sieve. Add the vanilla, yolks, and mix.

Heat the oven, 375 F (180 C), convected.

Butter ramekins, making upward strokes up the sides with a pastry brush. Sprinkle with sugar, tilting to coat completely and tapping out any excess. Arrange prepared ramekins on baking sheet.

Beat egg whites and a pinch of salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on medium speed until frothy, about 2 minutes. Gradually add icing sugar, 1 Tbsp. at a time, and beat until medium peaks form, 6 to7 minutes.

Using a rubber spatula, fold one-quarter of the beaten egg whites into chestnut mixture to lighten. Fold in remaining egg whites in 2 batches. Divide batter among prepared ramekins, filling completely.

Transfer baking sheet with ramekins to oven and bake soufflés until puffed and tops feel firm to the touch, 25–28 minutes.




POACHED PEARS IN RED WINE

Poached pears in red wine are a delicious dessert, which joins the pleasure to eat fruit in an unusual way and the possibility to offer a dessert lighter than usual. It is free from animal products and indulges even the pickiest palates or our guests who suffer from food intolerances.

Pears, red wine, sugar and spices join in a magic blending which evokes winter and evenings spent in front of a fireplace. Traditionally they were cooked in the oven, in an Aga. The smell invaded all the house, but even now, even if we cook them in a pot, the scent which pervades all the house is heavenly. It recalls the atmosphere of Christmas Markets and the mulled wine you are served there

If you want to add a more personal touch to this dish, you could serve the pears on a bed of custard or Mascarpone sauce, and pour the wine reduction on it. If you also add some wild berries you could give a kick to a dessert that tends to be very sweet.

In restaurants in Emilia-Romagna, they are frequently served with a zabaione mousse.

Ingredients

  • 4 pears ripe but firm
  • 1+1/8 cup (300 ml.) red wine
  • 4/5 cup (200 ml.) water
  • 1 cup (200 g) white sugar
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 3 cloves
  • ONLY IF YOU LOVE IT:
  • 2 star anises
  • 2 cardamom berries, crushed

Instructions

  1. Combine water, wine, and sugar in a heavy pot. Peel pears without discarding the stalk. Put apart.
  2. Bring the liquid to boil and add the spices, stirring until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat. Add pears to cooking liquid. Return cooking liquid to boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer until pears are tender, basting occasionally with cooking liquid if necessary, about 10-15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pears to a bowl.
  3. Strain cooking liquid; discard solids. Return cooking liquid to pot. Boil until reduced to a syrup. Chill until pears are cold. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Keep refrigerated.)
  4. Pour syrup over pears. I suggest serving them on a custard or Mascarpone, joining also some berries in order to give a kick to a very sweet dessert.

Anise star and cardamom are not used very frequently: they can be replaced by 6 2×1-inch strips lemon or orange peel (colored part only).




BUTTERNUT SQUASH: THE JOY OF AUTUMN

Butternut squash is one of the many joys of the season: rain and cold temperatures are compensated by incredibly rich and comforting foods. It is another gift from the Americas, like potatoes.

Accompanied by a creamy Taleggio cheese sauce, this dish speaks about the valley crossed through the Po river, its fog, its chilly temperatures. In this discomforting weather, nevertheless, the inhabitants created a varied cuisine, sophisticated, that requires some manual skills but is a great source of satisfaction.

One of my personal favorites is this recipe of gnocchi: the great canonic recipe of gnocchi is enriched by the addition of Butternut squash. It is extremely versatile: the 00 flour can be easily replaced by the same quantity of gluten-free flour in order to create a dish which can be tasted by our celiac guests. It is important to underline that the temperature of potatoes and squash is fundamental: just tepid, not too hot, or it would require an excessive quantity of flour, nor too cold, or it would be very hard to knead. Still, for the egg intolerant or vegan tablemates, we can decide not to add the egg. We must be quite skilled, though, since the egg makes pasta easier to knead. (and of course, the Taleggio sauce should be replaced by a vegetables one.

This recipe, like many others, is a starting point for a journey in the pleasures of Autumn.

 

Prep Time: 5 minutes | Cooking Time: 25 minutes | Total Time: 2 hours | Yield: Makes 6 servings.

Ingredients for gnocchi

  • 2 pounds (800 gr.) Hubbard squash, deseeded and cut in thin slices, then baked
  • 1 pound (400 gr.) russet potatoes , steamed and peeled
  • 1 medium egg
  • 1 cup (130 gr.) pastry/00 flour

 

Ingredients for Taleggio sauce

  • 7 oz. (200 gr.) Taleggio cheese
  • ¾ cup (200 ml.) milk
  • 1 tablespoon (20 gr.) butter
  • 2 tablespoons (20 gr.) pastry/00 flour
  • 1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg

 

Preparation of gnocchi

Push the potatoes (while still tepid/warm) through a food mill or potato ricer, onto a lightly floured work surface. In case the potatoes are too humid (moist) bake them for 5 minutes in the oven, before mashing them.

Gather the potatoes into a mound and make a well in the center. Peel the squash. Squeeze it, push it through a potato ricer and add it to the well. Sprinkle ¾ of the flour into the well and add in the egg.

Mix the ingredients by hand until a soft dough forms. If necessary, add more flour, a little at a time, until the dough has a smooth, evenly moistened consistency.

Lightly flour your work surface and divide the dough into at least eight portions. Roll the portions into 1-inch-thick ropes and cut the ropes into 1-inch pieces. Roll the gnocchi over a fork to shape them, if desired.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi and stir a few times with a wooden spoon to submerge and separate them. Cook at a gentle boil until the gnocchi is tender and just beginning to float about 2 to 3 minutes.

Preparation of Taleggio sauce

Make a béchamel melting the butter over low heat, combining the flour and salt and whisking with a fork as you add to prevent lumps. Add the milk a little at a time, whisking as you pour.

Raise the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Simmer for about 5 minutes to thicken, whisking to prevent and break up any lumps (eventually, use an immersion blender). Add the Taleggio, whisk for about 5 minutes to break up any lumps and join the gnocchi. Grate a pinch of nutmeg on the dish.

 




POTATO GNOCCHI WITH ARUGULA PESTO AND PRAWNS

The freshness of arugula is very inviting in the heat of the Italian summer. This is, of course, a variation of the famous “pesto” par excellence”. Arugula is a great source of flavonoids that are believed to have antioxidant properties. It’s also an excellent source of vitamin K, B and a very good source of iron, magnesium and vitamin A. Not only it shares the beneficial effects on the health of other cruciferous vegetables, but it is also a very rustic plant that does not need too much water, and it is ideal for the ones who have no too much time to dedicate to their garden.

The choice of potato gnocchi implies a lower quantity of calories due to the nutritional qualities of potato. I always prefer, if possible, to make potato gnocchi myself (see recipe).

The Latins considered this plant as a powerful aphrodisiac, probably because of its peppery flavor, typical above all of the wild variety.

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH ARUGULA PESTO AND PRAWNS

  • 3,5 pounds fresh potato gnocchi
  • 18 prawns

For pesto

  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • ½ cup (2 oz./60 g) pine nuts ((it can be replaced by same quantity of walnut pieces))
  • 3 cups (3 oz./90 g) arugula leaves coarsest chopped
  • ½ cup (2 oz./60 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • ¼ cup (1 oz./30 g) freshly grated Pecorino cheese
  • ½ cup (4 fl. Oz./125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
  • Sea salt for seasoning
  1. In a small food processor, combine the garlic and pine nuts or walnuts. Blend until it is a soft paste and then add arugula in small batches, and the olive oil, spoon by spoon. Blend each time until there is room to add a little more arugula and oil. Once all the arugula and oil is added, blend thoroughly until smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the cheeses, pulse to blend. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
  2. Transfer pesto to a serving bowl or platter.Cook gnocchi – in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, and add prawns 30 seconds before pasta is “al dente”.

    Take ½ cup pasta cooking liquid, and add to pesto, stirring carefully. Transfer gnocchi and prawns in the bowl with pesto and stir vigorously. Serve immediately.

 




RABBIT TUNA

Tuna and rabbit, together? Why this odd name?

A legend says that in 19th century the rules about fasting were particularly strict, and the friars in a convent of Avigliana, near Turin, decided to circumvent them by baptising their chickens and rabbits and calling them ‘tuna’ in order to eat them without sinning.

In spite of its country origin and simplicity, it is an elegant and delicious dish, perfect in every season, but particularly appreciated in summer. It was created in Piedmont, in a time where even the most modest families had barnyard animals and because it was necessary to find a way to preserve their meat, given there were no freezers, they started imitating the techniques used for tuna.

Rabbit meat is white and light, perfect for kids and all those who want or need to be careful with red meats. It is healthy and delicious – far from the sadness of eating kale or other depressing vegetables.

RABBIT TUNA

  • 1 (3-lb) rabbit carcass, cleaned with no head
  • 4-5 stems of fresh sage
  • 2 bulbs of garlic
  • sea salt and pepper for seasoning
  • 1 bottle delicate olive oil, possibly Ligurian (extra virgin)

For the broth

  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 1 medium carrot, chopped
  • 2 celery ribs, chopped
  • 1 cup light dry white wine
  • 70 fl. oz. water
  • 4-5 black peppercorns
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 4-5 fresh basil leaves
  • 1 stem fresh thyme
  • 3 stems of fresh parsley
  • 2 cloves
  1. Prepare an aromatic broth with basil, peppercorns, celery, onion, carrot, rosemary, bay leaves, cloves, salt, parsley, wine, and water. Let it simmer for 30 minutes and then carefully place the rabbit in the broth.
  2. Cook for 90 minutes, letting it simmer until the meat comes off the bones.
  3. In the meanwhile, wash and dry the sage leaves and clean the cloves of garlic.
  4. Take the rabbit out of the broth and when it is at room temperature bone it by hand, removing the smallest bones and gristle (cartilage). As you do it, season the meat with marine salt and freshly grounded black pepper.
  5. Prepare 4 small jars or a container, pour a bit of oil, add some meat, a clove of garlic, a couple of sage leaves, more oil, meat, garlic and sage and so on until the jar is full. Finish the last layer with garlic, sage and ¼ inch oil.
  6. Wait 2 days before serving it so the flavours have the time to blend beautifully.
  7. Serving suggestion: I highly recommend steaming 3-4 potatoes, slicing and seasoning them, and serving rabbit pieces on them with its aromatic oil.
  8. The jars can be preserved like this for a week, or frozen.

Filter the broth and freeze in 2-3 jars, it is excellent for rabbit stews or rabbit paella.

 




STRAWBERRY PANNA COTTA (BAVARESE)

Strawberry panna cotta (bavarese) is a delicious dessert, ideal to celebrate Spring!

Strawberry season reaches its peak in May, offering the sweetest and most delicious flavour. This panna cotta intensifies their freshness creating a symphony of tastes in which the light sourness of lemon balances perfectly the sweetness of whipped cream.

I noticed, reading American recipe books, that panna cotta includes also the concept of bavarese, whereas the 2 cakes are quite different. While both of them are made basically with gelatin and whipping cream, panna cotta is a “white dessert” served with a chocolate sauce or a fruit compote, while bavarese includes fresh fruits, zabaglione and a wider assortment of ingredients in its own mixture.

IMPORTANT NOTE: in order to follow the American system with cups and pounds, I slightly varied the quantities to adjust it compared to the Italian recipe. Decide which system you prefer, the taste is the same, the result too.

Prep Time: 5 minutes | Cooking Time: 25 minutes | Total Time: 30 minutes | Yield: Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients

  • 3 cups (500 gr.)sliced strawberries (1 pound)  – room temperature
  • 1 cup (250 gr.) white sugar
  • 1/2 organic lemon zest
  • 2 pkgs Knox gelatin or gelatin sheets 25 grams (about 5 sheets)
  • 2 1/3 cups (500 ml) fresh whipping cream
  • (according to your own taste) wild strawberries

Special tools: Electric blender, electric mixer, Bundt cake silicone mold, size: 9″ (Dia) x 3″ (H), 2 big bowls.

 

Instructions

Soften gelatin as directed on package in cold water OR, as in the case of gelatin sheets, place them in a bowl with lots of cold water.

Blend strawberries, sugar and the lemon juice, juice in a blender until very smooth, then pour it in a bowl.

In the other bowl whip cream until solid.

Heat gelatin over low heat in a small saucepan, stirring until dissolved (in case you are using sheets, squeeze them by hand before you put it in the saucepan).

Remove from heat and add to strawberry mixture, then add cream and whisk it into strawberry purée. Pour into mold. Be delicate but fast in order to prevent roping (making strings of gelatin).

Pour into the mold and let it cool in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

To unmold, dip mold in a bowl of hot water 2 or 3 seconds, then invert panna cotta onto dessert plate and remove mold.

You can add wild strawberries in the central hole.